Cycling Shoes for Your Best Rides

Cycling has gotten complicated with all the gear and training methods flying around. As someone with extensive cycling experience, I learned everything there is to know about this topic. Today, I will share it all with you.

Cycling Shoes: What Actually Matters

I spent my first two years road cycling in running shoes clipped into flat pedals. It worked fine. Then I tried clipless pedals and proper cycling shoes, and the difference was immediate – more power, less fatigue, and my feet stopped sliding around on hard efforts.

But here’s the thing: you don’t need $400 carbon shoes to feel that difference. Here’s what I’ve learned after going through way too many pairs.

The Three Categories

Road shoes have stiff soles and smooth bottoms. They’re designed for maximum power transfer – no energy lost to flex. The tradeoff is they’re terrible for walking. Like, actually dangerous on tile floors.

Mountain bike shoes have treaded soles and recessed cleats. You can actually walk in them without looking like a newborn giraffe. The sole is a bit more flexible, which costs some efficiency but makes hike-a-bike sections possible.

Casual/commuter shoes look like regular sneakers but have a stiff section in the sole for pedaling. Perfect if you ride to work and don’t want to carry a change of shoes. Not ideal for serious training.

What Matters More Than Price

Fit is everything. A $150 shoe that fits your foot perfectly will outperform a $400 shoe that doesn’t. Different brands have different shapes – Shimano tends to run wider, Giro tends to run narrow, Specialized is somewhere in between. Try several brands.

Sole stiffness affects power transfer. Carbon soles are the stiffest and lightest. Composite soles are slightly heavier and marginally less stiff, but most riders can’t tell the difference. Unless you’re racing seriously, save the money.

Closure systems: BOA dials are convenient for on-the-fly adjustments. Traditional laces look cleaner and some people find them more comfortable. Velcro straps are becoming less common but work fine. Whatever keeps the shoe snug without hot spots.

Ventilation matters if you ride in heat. Mesh panels and perforated uppers help, but more ventilation also means colder feet in winter. Consider your climate.

Brands I’ve Had Good Luck With

Shimano makes solid, reliable shoes at every price point. The S-Phyre line is their race-level stuff, but even their entry-level RC1 shoes are decent. Good fit for average to wide feet.

Giro runs narrower and tends toward a more minimalist design. The Empire SLX is beautiful if your feet can handle a slim fit. Their mountain bike shoes (Privateer, Sector) are excellent too.

Sidi is the old-school choice. Expensive, but nearly everything is replaceable – buckles, straps, heel cups, even the soles on some models. Built to last years.

Five Ten dominates flat pedal and casual MTB shoes. If you’re not going clipless, their Freerider line is the standard. The rubber compound grips pedal pins better than anything else I’ve tried.

The Real Cost Difference

Budget shoes ($80-150): Usually heavier, synthetic uppers, composite or nylon soles. Perfectly fine for fitness riding, commuting, or getting started with clipless.

Mid-range ($150-250): Better materials, often carbon soles, more refined fit systems. This is the sweet spot for most serious recreational riders.

High-end ($300+): Marginal weight savings, premium everything. Worth it if you race or just want the best. Diminishing returns for everyone else.

Making Them Last

Let shoes dry out between rides. The salt from sweat breaks down materials faster than anything. Pull insoles out and air them separately.

Don’t walk on rough surfaces in road shoes – the cleats wear down fast and the soles scratch up. Carry shoe covers or flip flops for coffee stops.

Check cleat alignment periodically. Cleats shift over time and bad alignment causes knee pain. If something starts hurting, check the cleats first.

Bottom Line

Try shoes on in person if you can. Walk around the shop for ten minutes. The right fit matters more than the brand name or the price tag. Start in the $150 range unless you have a specific reason to go higher, and don’t overthink it – any properly fitting cycling shoe is a massive upgrade from sneakers.